Saturday, October 11, 2014

(2) SICILY 2014: CULTURE THROUGH THE AGES

June 12
Agrigento***Caltagirone***Ragusa

After a nice champagne brunch at the Buongiorno restaurant we departed for Agrigento and its renowned Greek Valley of the Temples, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The archaeological site includes seven temples, all in Doric style.

Temple of Juno and Temple of Concordia

Temple of Heracles and Temple of the Olympian Zeus, with the remains of a reconstructed atlas in the Olympeion field.

There were also modern bronze sculptures: Icarus by Igor Mitoraj and L'angelo della Valle dei Templi by Ernesto Lamagna.

Buffet lunch was at the Hotel Villa Athena with a nice view of the ruins. After which we drove on to Caltagirone to visit a majolica ceramics factory. Stayed at the Poggio del Sole Hotel just outside Ragusa; swam at the unheated pool; very mediocre dinner at the hotel's Hosteria restaurant.



June 13
Modica***Noto***Siracusa


According to Thucydides, Modica was founded in 1360 BC and since 2002 a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is divided into "Modica Alta" (Upper Modica) and "Modica Bassa" (Lower Modica).

The Chiesa San Pietro was built in the mid-14th century, damaged by the earthquake of 1613 and finally destroyed by the earthquake of 1693. The façade of the rebuilt church is of the late Baroque style, and the staircase is marked by statues of the apostles.

Modica is also famous for its extraordinary and unique product, the famous chocolate of Modica, produced with an ancient and original Aztec recipe. We visited the Antica Dolceria Bonajuto and sampled its excellent chocolates.

Next stop is the ancient town of Noto which with its church were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2002. According to legend, Daedalus stopped here after his flight over the Ionian Sea, as well as Hercules, after his seventh task.

Had a Birra Vendicari with my lunch at Café Arté Restaurant.

Arrived in Siracusa, founded by the ancient Corinthians and notable for its rich Greek history, culture, amphitheatres, architecture, and also as the birthplace of the preeminent mathematician and engineer Archimedes. This 2,700-year-old city played a key role in ancient times, when it was one of the major powers of the Mediterranean world. We were transferred by shuttle buses to the Hotel des Étrangers on the island of Ortigia overlooking the Ionian Sea.

Our guide took us on a walking tour of the city. The Duomo was built by bishop Zosimo in the 7th century over the great Temple of Athena (5th century BC).

Dinner was at the Porta Marina da Salvo where I started with a glass of local red wine and grilled seafood, then the risotto with gamberoni with 24kt gold-leaf for my main course.



June 14
Siracusa***Archaeological Park

View of the bay from my room's balcony and the Fountain of Arethusa, Siracusa’s most important attraction, mythologically speaking. Situated inside a sunken artesian pond, this beautiful fountain has even been in the poetry of Virgil and countless other scribes. According to legend, the nymph Arethusa, hunted by Alpheus, took shelter here.

A visit to the Siracusa Duomo which has a relic of St Lucy, the city's patron saint.

At the center of the Piazza Archimede is the Fountain of Diana by Giulio Moschetti (1906), dedicated to the myth of the nymph Arethusa, transformed by the goddess Diana into a spring to escape the amorous persecution of Alpheus, who in the group peeps heartbroken from behind the goddess. The nymph is represented, nude, while about to slip into the water below with which she will blend, while all around Tritons and Nereids prance about on seahorses.

Next stop is the Archaeological Park which is divided into three main sections: the latomie (stone quarries), the Greek theater, and the Roman amphitheater. The cavern is dubbed "Ear of Dionysius".

The Greek Theatre, built in the 5th century BC, is covered with wooden boards for the summertime theatre; the Roman Amphitheatre built in the 1st century AD.

Back in town to lunch with the Barone Pietro di Beneventano del Bosco at his palazzo and to try some of his locally produced wine. He was a very genial host. Among the famous guest in the palace were the Bourbon King Ferdinand III and British Admiral Horatio Nelson.
Palazzo Benevento del Bosco; the Coat of Arms on the gate

Time for a boat ride around the island! Saw small caves and a beautiful view of the island.

Our hotel as seen from the boat; the island of Ortigia is popular for weddings.

After the boat ride I spent some delightful time sitting in an outdoor cafe in the Piazza Duomo drinking Aperol Spritz and people-watching.

Our tour guide had a surprise for us tonight: a puppet show at the Teatro dei Pupi.

Dinner was at an outdoor cafe in the Piazza Duomo with some of my travel friends.

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